Need help for repairing an orig Zartan. - Page 4

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  1. #31
    I would never recommend boiling an original figure with the color change skin. This color change effect is a temperature sensative additive to the plastic and the extreme heat could very well neutralize the color change effect. Not certain about that but I would never risk it.

    For those types of figures just get a hair dryer and warm the figure up a little, not much, don't get it any hotter than it would get laying out in the sun on a spring day, then take an Xacto knife and start at the hole in the bottom of the torso, slide it up the seam and seperate the two halves. A fresh blade is best and it should slice it right open, just be real carful because it will slice those fingers open just as easily.
    Net-Viper X
    Cobra Command Computer Interface Expert

    Net-Viper X's G.I.Joe Customization Archive

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  3. #32
    On this topic, was there anything particularly special about the '83 Cobra Hiss Tank Driver? I'm having a heck of a time getting a torso open on one of mine to replace the o-ring and am wondering if that particular figure had something unusual going on as well? (similar to Zartan, with a bonded torso or something).

  4. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Inzane View Post
    On this topic, was there anything particularly special about the '83 Cobra Hiss Tank Driver? I'm having a heck of a time getting a torso open on one of mine to replace the o-ring and am wondering if that particular figure had something unusual going on as well? (similar to Zartan, with a bonded torso or something).
    Shouldn't be anything holding H.I.S.S. Driver together except a screw, I have disassembled several of them. There are a few of possibilities, he could have cola or something sticky spilled into him that has his screw socket stuck together, or he could have been glued together by previous owner either around the screw socket or around the torso itself most likely due to stripping out the original screw hole. It also could just have been so tightly screwed for so long that the torso is simply stuck together tight and might pop apart with a little prying from O-ring hole in the bottom of the torso.

    If he won't pop open with some gentle prying then try putting him in a glass of warm water with a bit of mild dish soap and let him soak for a few hours. If its cola or something similar spilled in him it will dissolve and he will come apart. If this doesn't work he has likely been glued and will have to be pried apart with more force, but be very careful with this route, superglue can be tough to crack.
    Net-Viper X
    Cobra Command Computer Interface Expert

    Net-Viper X's G.I.Joe Customization Archive

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  6. #34
    Before I read the whole thread, I did the hair dryer thing, and it worked pretty good, didn't discolor it as far as I know. I tried to heat it up again to get it to reform together properly (plastic memory) but it still seems to be a little off, a slight crack between parts. Oh well, at least he has a new o ring! Speaking of which, I could use a waist for him too, anybody got one?

    I also used the same method for zarana, worked even better with that one.

  7. #35
    Why the **** was he glued in the first place?

  8. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by nerdsgetchicks View Post
    Why the **** was he glued in the first place?
    The plastic that he is made out of it too soft and the back screw could easily strip out the threads.

  9. #37
    I just wanted to report that I had success repairing Storm Shadow (v)3, the 1992 Ninja Force figure. STORM SHADOW (v3), YOJOE.COM | YoJoe.com: Dedicated to the G.I.Joe of the 80's, 90's and beyond! I thought this guy would look great with my arctic collection and when I finally got around to opening him after an auction, found his O-ring was dilapidated and wouldn't stand up straight..

    There are no visible entry points (back screw) on SS which was the initial problem to solve. The shell is glued together and has a function with which you could move one arm and have some kind of action on the other. Inside the figure has a clockwork of gears attached to the arms and a spring that are difficult to piece back together. This felt very sadistic and was not enjoyable, but I tore the figure in half, his legs from his torso. Then I gently pried apart the shell by wagging my screwdriver back and forth inside the shell and it popped without too much effort. I found a special screw in my kit that had a broad rim around the head and slipped a new #41 o-ring underneath, then completed turning the screw which jacketed the o-ring, already connected to the t-hook, because of two original plastic supports running vertically alongside the center of the shell. The ridge on the screw gives sturdy support to the arm assemblies, which retained their gears and fit perfectly. I was unable to replace the core or heart of that clockwork-looking mass, but it's really no longer needed. I gave a good splat of Elmer's around the edges and slipped on the back section. The torso as a whole fits perfectly into the unique waist, and actually clamps down the two halves really well, so no need for vice grips or other tools. Very happy with the repair. Ta-da.


  10. #38

    Success

    Just did this. I set him outside in the sun, I live in Arizona, for about 10 minutes and used a sharp knife and he popped right open. Just be carefully of yourself and your 19 year old antique!!!!!
    Thanks for the help!!!

  11. #39
    Hi all,
    just bought and repaired a Zandar and Zarana w broken O rings.


    I used no heat or water.

    i took two small screwdrivers- like the eye glasses repair kind medium size
    and put them inside the chest torso hole.
    The screwdrivers were on either cavity/side of the middle inner connector
    part.
    I then took both screwdrivers in my left and right hand and made a wish/ pulled apart in the direction of front and back.
    the tension snapped the torso apart and no broken parts!
    the parts will go flying, but came apart intact and was a normal O ring repair from then on.

    Thanks, everyone for their tips and hope mine works for someone.

  12. #40

    This method works!

    Quote Originally Posted by cageyJG View Post
    I just wanted to report that I had success repairing Storm Shadow (v)3, the 1992 Ninja Force figure. STORM SHADOW (v3), YOJOE.COM | YoJoe.com: Dedicated to the G.I.Joe of the 80's, 90's and beyond! I thought this guy would look great with my arctic collection and when I finally got around to opening him after an auction, found his O-ring was dilapidated and wouldn't stand up straight..

    There are no visible entry points (back screw) on SS which was the initial problem to solve. The shell is glued together and has a function with which you could move one arm and have some kind of action on the other. Inside the figure has a clockwork of gears attached to the arms and a spring that are difficult to piece back together. This felt very sadistic and was not enjoyable, but I tore the figure in half, his legs from his torso. Then I gently pried apart the shell by wagging my screwdriver back and forth inside the shell and it popped without too much effort. I found a special screw in my kit that had a broad rim around the head and slipped a new #41 o-ring underneath, then completed turning the screw which jacketed the o-ring, already connected to the t-hook, because of two original plastic supports running vertically alongside the center of the shell. The ridge on the screw gives sturdy support to the arm assemblies, which retained their gears and fit perfectly. I was unable to replace the core or heart of that clockwork-looking mass, but it's really no longer needed. I gave a good splat of Elmer's around the edges and slipped on the back section. The torso as a whole fits perfectly into the unique waist, and actually clamps down the two halves really well, so no need for vice grips or other tools. Very happy with the repair. Ta-da.

    I know it's been a few years since this was originally posted but I bet people still run into this repair issue. I was just able to pry apart my Storm Shadow with two small screwdrivers. I did not use a heat source or a knife on the seams. I just slowly increased the pressure then he popped right apart.


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