"C" Grading Scale?

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  1. #1

    "C" Grading Scale?

    Hi All! I see several sellers advertising and describing their toys and figures using the C-Scale. I have a general idea what the scale means but where can I find the "official" published definitions? ... assuming there is one. When I search it, I get various "Toy sites" that seem to be defining it themselves. Thanks in advance.

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  3. #2
    The C scale was most widely used by Overstreet and was translated into toys. Conor and Corey (the original yojoe.com guys) used to have a great listing here on yojoe, but I am unable to find it.
    Apparently one of the longest standing members of Yojoe.com is now a troll. OK then... This troll is going to find a bridge somewhere and play Warhammer.

  4. #3
    The problem is that no one really follows any official guidelines when they say C-8.

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  6. #4
    One thing I remember from the last "official" list i read, was that anything broken automatically drops it to a c-6 no matter what.
    Apparently one of the longest standing members of Yojoe.com is now a troll. OK then... This troll is going to find a bridge somewhere and play Warhammer.

  7. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by John Missal
    One thing I remember from the last "official" list i read, was that anything broken automatically drops it to a c-6 no matter what.
    sounds like afa. I tried to send an autographed rodney fig and was told since there was writing on it it wouldnt score higher then a 60.

  8. #6
    C-9 is MINT MINT but opened. SO If I just opened a figure, he is C-9.....if that conditions drrops at all...small paintwear even in the slightest...it's C-8. Simple to understand the top, but lower ....nope

    C-8 is what you'll mostly find and be plenty happy with as a loose collector.

  9. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by CobraLALALALA
    C-9 is MINT MINT but opened. SO If I just opened a figure, he is C-9.....if that conditions drrops at all...small paintwear even in the slightest...it's C-8. Simple to understand the top, but lower ....nope

    C-8 is what you'll mostly find and be plenty happy with as a loose collector.
    Then what's C-10???

  10. #8
    C-10 is factory mint, and it has nothing to do with being opened. You can have a c-10 opened item. There is nothing that precludes it from being C-10 Loose. C-10 unopened is generally case fresh with unpuched card (on those with hanger tags that were punched out. a case fresh figure that had the tag punched automatically became c9, and if it had a price tag became c8 or c7 depending on how rough it was attached (the price gun could dig in to the card with the wheels leaving dents, thus c7).

    A loose figure can be c10 right out of the package, and even if you shook the figure in the bubble, thus be the same once opened. You cannot have a c-10 played with item. You immediately start to get wear on the thumbs, back pack pegs, etc the first time they're used. Pretty much to get a c-10 loose, you'd have the "uncirculated" condition from AFA, where they open it and put it straight into the case.

    JohN m.
    Apparently one of the longest standing members of Yojoe.com is now a troll. OK then... This troll is going to find a bridge somewhere and play Warhammer.

  11. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by John Missal
    C-10 is factory mint, and it has nothing to do with being opened. You can have a c-10 opened item. There is nothing that precludes it from being C-10 Loose. C-10 unopened is generally case fresh with unpuched card (on those with hanger tags that were punched out. a case fresh figure that had the tag punched automatically became c9, and if it had a price tag became c8 or c7 depending on how rough it was attached (the price gun could dig in to the card with the wheels leaving dents, thus c7).

    A loose figure can be c10 right out of the package, and even if you shook the figure in the bubble, thus be the same once opened. You cannot have a c-10 played with item. You immediately start to get wear on the thumbs, back pack pegs, etc the first time they're used. Pretty much to get a c-10 loose, you'd have the "uncirculated" condition from AFA, where they open it and put it straight into the case.

    JohN m.
    Thanks for the clarification! However, I'm curious to why most uncirculated loose figures get an 85 from AFA? How is that possible? If they were never touched by human hands, shouldn't it be at least a 90/95 at minimum?

  12. #10
    afore mentioned bubble wear. Not every figure stays perfectly still in the package.

    Just imagine what grade you'd get if your figure lost the oring once you shipped it to them. YOu get it back and it's a 65.

    JOhn M>
    Apparently one of the longest standing members of Yojoe.com is now a troll. OK then... This troll is going to find a bridge somewhere and play Warhammer.

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