Remove yellowing from plastics.. fix found.

[StkhlmDK]

Too bad that shipping of USS structure parts would cost a gazzillion $ from DK to US because I could use some help to get my USS in better shape.

Btw. you may need to get the lighting constant in your before/after photos as it looks like the cleaned parts are always slightly overexposed which could lead to some confusion about the effects.

[myst32yt]

Too bad that shipping of USS structure parts would cost a gazzillion $ from DK to US because I could use some help to get my USS in better shape.

Btw. you may need to get the lighting constant in your before/after photos as it looks like the cleaned parts are always slightly overexposed which could lead to some confusion about the effects.

I will make you a deal if you want to try it. PM me.

Do I need to set the camera on manual and shoot with the same settings for each shot? I have a copy table with two lamps so my lighting is constant now. It has been driving me crazy. Some of the FLAGG parts are darker than what the picture shows.

[StkhlmDK]

I will make you a deal if you want to try it. PM me.

Do I need to set the camera on manual and shoot with the same settings for each shot? I have a copy table with two lamps so my lighting is constant now. It has been driving me crazy. Some of the FLAGG parts are darker than what the picture shows.

I will keep this thread on my Substribe-list and maybe I will take you up on that offer later on

As for the camera then yes, put it on Manual and try a few different settings. Try the auto first (usually called P on Canon) and see what the F-number and Exposure is set to (e.g. F/4.0 and 1/125) and try that in Manual mode. You can then start to experiement a bit (higher F-value means larger depth but at the cost of exposure time = Longer) so I will suggest that you put the camera on a tripod of something similar.

[myst32yt]

I will keep this thread on my Substribe-list and maybe I will take you up on that offer later on

As for the camera then yes, put it on Manual and try a few different settings. Try the auto first (usually called P on Canon) and see what the F-number and Exposure is set to (e.g. F/4.0 and 1/125) and try that in Manual mode. You can then start to experiement a bit (higher F-value means larger depth but at the cost of exposure time = Longer) so I will suggest that you put the camera on a tripod of something similar.

I will get to work on that. I am sure people can see the difference but I really want them dead on as far as the images go. Thanks for your help!!

[cageyJG]

Here's a huge topical story found today on SNES grey discoloration - dyes, UV, fire retardants, etc.:

Vintage Computing and Gaming | Archive » Why Super Nintendos Lose Their Color: Plastic Discoloration in Classic Machines

and add'l comments:

FARK.com: (6518651) Ever wonder why your old, previously-gray SNES has faded to yellow?

[myst32yt]

Here's a huge topical story found today on SNES grey discoloration - dyes, UV, fire retardants, etc.:

Vintage Computing and Gaming | Archive » Why Super Nintendos Lose Their Color: Plastic Discoloration in Classic Machines

and add'l comments:

FARK.com: (6518651) Ever wonder why your old, previously-gray SNES has faded to yellow?

Thanks!!! Interesting read. I have been messing with snes for some time now... it is a real pain in the a**...



I have a long way to go...but I hope to get it figured out..

[myst32yt]

Many people have been asking about using this product on FLAGG parts that have yellowed. It works great for these parts, returning them to their former glory. Doing the calculations on the amount of our product needed to dunk large parts of the FLAGG, and the cost to ship that much chemical, we found the total cost to be unacceptable. The product cost is not that high, about $75 for 5 gallons. However, the shipping cost was over $100.

So to get around all this we decided to try shipping the much lighter FLAGG parts and figure what it would cost to do the process "in house". This turned out much better. depending on your location the whole process could cost less that $100 including shipping.

We have put together 2 package deals you can see here. The deal is live... however we want to get feedback from you and your thoughts on price and if you feel it is a good deal. You can get shipping cost by adding the item to a cart then putting in your zip.

We have offered to run the process for free to one user (docski85) of the forum who was willing to ship his FLAGG to us. He promised to report back to the group his findings. He is also taking pictures that he will post so others can see the end result.

Thanks to everyone for the help.

Myst

[Satandy]

Hrm, I'm a chemist too and I'm intrigued. Some other oxidizer then?


Is it any less nasty than working with hydrogen peroxide in terms of skin burns?

[DVT]

myst32yt, Has been to our store several times and has bought / was given some yellowed parts. He brought them back to show us and this really does work. He came by today and got some Flagg parts and we actually found some more parts we hadn't seen in a while.

http://www.dallasvintagetoys.com
-Shaun

[Flophouse]

My Crusader shell arrived at his place today, shipping was not cheap from Canada. He'll try it out tonight and hopefully it will be bright white again.

Zack, feel free to post results here if you want.